I have no business being on a surfboard. I am not in shape. I’ve never surfed nor participated in a surfing lesson. My bathing suit screams sit and look pretty on the beach. It is not sporty at all.
Yet, there I was on a surfboard in the ocean trying to catch a wave.
Actual surfing was never my goal. My husband’s goal for the day was to ride a few waves in. He was the one trying to surf, not me.
But he tired out. Surfing is hard work, folks! I guess that’s why surfers are in shape. My husband is in shape. I feel like I must add this part since he reads my blog. He runs distances and he runs them fast. He is a tough former Marine. He lasted light years longer than I did.
I felt strangely adventurous. Since my boogie boarding was paying off, I thought I’d try a little long board while he rested.
So, I sat on the surfboard waiting for a wave. Then, I looked down and it didn’t take long for the alarms to go off in my brain. The tip of the surfboard was under water and a big wave was coming.
20 years after high school graduation and physics is still paying off. I calculated and visualized myself in that wave and it wasn’t pretty.
I jumped off in time and didn’t experience that reality and I am so glad! I want to mother my children way into their adulthood whether they like it or not.
That day I managed to ride two waves in on the board on my stomach all the way until we crunched into the sand. I never pictured myself on a surfboard, never in all my life, not even on my belly. I tried a new, daring thing. Way to go me!
We debriefed our life overseas this weekend. We did it by the ocean which is why we rented a surfboard. I watched the sunrise and the sunset. I listened to the ocean and I reflected on our life overseas, the joys, losses, and how it shaped me.
Now we live a much different life. It can seem a bit dull sometimes when everything isn’t a challenging adventure. It’s a weird kind of hard when things feel too easy. This is the new thing we are doing for the first time.
The guy at the long board shop spoke to a customer. “We want to live the best life we can live.”
He did not speak it to me but I took it in. I, too, want to live the best life I can live for the Lord wherever He plants me.
I want to enjoy the constant breakers of life. The points where I watch, where I wait for the wave, where I try to ride it, where it wipes me out, and where I get up and go back into the surf. Low tide, high tide. I want to live it.
Those are my next steps. I will find real Chinese food like I said under point #1 in the official debrief packet I filled out. But, above and beyond and as the background to all that, I will live life for the Lord.
I also plan to stick with the boogie board. Like I said, I want to live.
Love this! Love your humor and the genuine way you speak about dealing with the breakers of life. And sticking with the boogie board. You, my friend, are most talented.
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Thank you for the encouragement to keep at it. I needed the challenge to get back to writing a post a week.
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